BEIJING – Pearl Ren, a doctoral student in Beijing, has a healthy head of hair but feels anxious about her naturally high hairline and the widening parting in the middle of her scalp. Her concerns are amplified by the constant advertisements for hair growth remedies, featuring models with glossy, waist-length locks and flawless hairlines.
“There are countless ads in subway and bus stations, especially in business districts,” said Pearl, who goes by her English name. Three years ago, after finishing her master’s degree, she considered undergoing hair transplant surgery. However, she has yet to commit.
“I’ve done some research, and the recovery period seems long, which could disrupt my work schedule. I’m also worried that the transplanted follicles might become problematic as I age,” she explained. For now, Pearl uses hairline powder to make her thinning spots appear fuller.
Pearl is part of a growing group of cautious consumers, and her concerns are valid. The increasing prevalence of hair thinning, receding hairlines, and baldness has spurred rapid growth in China’s hair restoration and transplant industry. However, experts warn consumers not to be misled by exaggerated claims in advertisements, emphasizing that hair loss treatment is often a long process and not always guaranteed.
A Booming Industry Amid Growing Hair Loss
According to official data, about 250 million people in China suffer from hair loss or thinning, with 130 million affected by androgenetic alopecia, commonly known as pattern hair loss. Other common forms of hair loss include telogen effluvium, a temporary condition caused by stress, hormonal changes, or medication, and alopecia areata, characterized by small, coin-sized patches of hair loss.
Yang Dingquan, head of the Trichology Center at the China-Japan Friendship Hospital, notes that the average person has between 100,000 and 150,000 hairs on their head. Those with pattern hair loss typically have around 40,000, but most can maintain their remaining hair with treatment, and approximately 70 percent can increase their hair count to between 50,000 and 70,000.
“It’s challenging to restore someone’s hair to what it was at age 18,” Yang said. He also cautioned that if treatment is stopped, hair loss may continue, potentially leading to baldness.
When it comes to hair transplants, a procedure in which natural hair follicles are moved to bald areas, Yang stressed that regular monitoring is crucial to avoid inflammation and infection. Transplanted areas require meticulous care to prevent further hair loss.
“Hair loss is a condition that requires long-term management,” Yang explained. “Patients must follow a strict medication regimen under medical supervision and take proper care of their hair.”
Success Rates and Consumer Concerns
Despite the challenges, many private hair care companies claim success rates of up to 95 percent for hair transplants. However, this claim has left some consumers disappointed. Zhang, a woman from Shenzhen, told China Central Television that a year after undergoing a hair transplant, the treated areas still appeared thin.
“When I confronted the clinic about their so-called success rate, they told me my hair follicles lacked ‘vitality,’” Zhang said. “I’m in my 20s, so if my follicles lack vitality, how can they claim a 95 percent success rate? Conditions like mine should lower that percentage.”
Chen Yinjiang, deputy secretary-general of the Consumer Protection Law Association of the China Law Society, highlighted that some hair growth and transplant ads exaggerate the severity of hair loss and the effectiveness of their treatments, creating unnecessary anxiety among viewers.
China’s Advertisement Law prohibits medical advertisements from making claims about effectiveness, safety, or success rates. “Claims like a 95 percent follicle survival rate violate the law,” Chen noted.
Consumers Navigating a Crowded Market
Li Fang, a 34-year-old Beijing resident, began losing hair a few years ago. While intrigued by hair transplant ads, he remains skeptical of their promises. “The market seems like a mixed bag, and I don’t know where to find reliable services,” Li said. “I’m not sure if the technology is mature and foolproof. I’m slowly coming to terms with my appearance, even though my hair doesn’t look great in the mirror.”
Wei Aihua, chief physician at Beijing Tongren Hospital’s Dermatology Department, pointed out that the number of people seeking hair loss treatment has surged in recent years. “More than a decade ago, we saw only a few patients with hair loss concerns. Now, appointment slots fill up quickly,” she said.
Wei also noted that patients’ demands have evolved. “In the past, people primarily sought treatment for baldness. Now, they want to address greasy scalps, itching, and high hairlines. Many young women want to create aesthetically pleasing hairlines.”
Expanding Services and Specialized Clinics
With the rising demand for hair care, hospitals are responding by setting up specialized clinics for hair-related conditions rather than referring patients to dermatology departments or private hair transplant businesses.
“At hospitals, we offer a comprehensive range of services, from hair washing and nourishment to anti-hair loss treatments and hair transplants,” Wei said. However, she stressed that patience and consistent care are essential for managing hair-related issues.
As China’s hair restoration industry continues to grow, experts are urging consumers to stay informed, manage their expectations, and approach treatments with caution. Hair loss, it seems, is not just a physical condition but one that requires careful, long-term management to achieve lasting results.
