Designer Tolu Oye, creator of Meji Meji, has a complex relationship with her hair. Growing up in Lagos, Nigeria, and later in Ohio, she faced mixed messages about beauty standards. In a predominantly non-diverse town, she had to determine her own beliefs about beauty.
Oye recalls a period when she opted for chemical relaxers to distance herself from her African heritage. However, a trip back to Nigeria in 2016 sparked a transformation in her perspective. “I had a rebirth in terms of loving my culture,” she said. “Now, I want to share elements of my culture through storytelling, even if it’s about hair.”
Her clothing brand, Meji Meji, launched in 2020, exemplifies this mission. One of her best-selling items, the “Na Me Cause Am” t-shirt, features a Black woman with an afro. Her latest design, the Sisi Ologe top, continues this narrative, celebrating her cultural identity and connection to hair.
The Sisi Ologe top reflects styles from 1970s wig advertisements, showcasing voluminous blowouts, kinky coils, and intricate braids that celebrate African beauty. Oye collaborates with artists, including Joseph Edgar, to create unique prints. The latest design took six months to perfect, showcasing her commitment to quality.
The campaign imagery draws inspiration from Nollywood films, blending nostalgia with modern Shuku up-dos. Oye’s longtime friends and collaborators, Joke Lawal and Opeyemi Oyebanji, brought her vision to life with their hairstyling expertise, highlighting the intricacies of the top.
Oye’s passion for hair began at a young age. At five, she referred to her mother’s braiding salon as her “after-school program.” There, she helped with clients’ braids while watching Nollywood films, which ignited her interest in fashion and beauty.
Reflecting on her childhood, Oye noted, “I was obsessed with America’s Next Top Model. I watched the makeovers repeatedly. My mom recognized my interest in hair and fashion.” This early exposure influenced her design path, emphasizing the importance of connecting her work to her African roots and preserving traditional braiding techniques.
Grateful for her parents’ support, Oye moved to New York at 15 to attend the Art & Design School. She became known for her bold hairstyles, including bang braids and twisted mohawks. “I gave my hairstylists headaches,” she recalled, until she found a supportive community in Helena Koudou and Joke Lawal.
In 2018, she introduced the Shuku+Periwinkle hairstyle, featuring a high up-do with swooped braids. This style gained visibility on various platforms, including the CFDA red carpet and music videos. “People’s reactions made me realize it’s not just about hair,” she said. Oye believes in the importance of representation in her work. “It’s about preserving traditional techniques while adding a modern touch. It’s my legacy.”
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