Choosing the right toner for your hair can feel overwhelming, especially with so many options available. As a hairstylist, I’m here to simplify the process. This guide breaks down everything you need to know about toners—from what they are to how to pick the perfect one for your hair color. Let’s dive in!
What Is a Toner?
A toner is a product used to adjust the undertones of your hair after bleaching or coloring. It doesn’t lighten hair but neutralizes unwanted shades (like brassiness) or adds subtle hues (like pearl or ash). Think of it as a “color corrector” for your hair.
Key Differences Between Toner and Hair Dye:
- Toner: Works on pre-lightened hair, lasts 2–6 weeks, and balances tones.
- Dye: Deposits pigment to change hair color, lasts longer, and requires developer.
Why Use a Toner?
Toners solve common hair color problems:
- Neutralizes Brassiness: Yellow or orange tones in blonde, brunette, or gray hair.
- Enhances Cool or Warm Tones: Adds ash, platinum, caramel, or rose gold shades.
- Creates Uniform Color: Fixes uneven patches after bleaching.
- Refreshes Faded Color: Revives color-treated hair between salon visits.
Types of Toners
Toners come in different forms, each suited for specific needs:
Demi-Permanent Toners
- Lasts: 4–6 weeks.
- How It Works: Uses a low-volume developer (e.g., 10 Vol) to open hair cuticles and deposit color.
- Best For: Significant brassiness or dramatic tone changes.
- Example: Wella Color Charm T18 (for icy blonde).
Semi-Permanent Toners
- Lasts: 2–4 weeks.
- How It Works: No developer needed. Deposits color on the hair’s surface.
- Best For: Refreshing color or subtle tone adjustments.
- Example: Redken Shades EQ (customizable gloss).
Temporary Toners (Toning Shampoos/Masks)
- Lasts: 1–2 washes.
- How It Works: Pigmented shampoos/masks deposit color while cleansing.
- Best For: Maintenance between toner applications.
- Examples:
- Purple Shampoo: Neutralizes yellow tones (Fanola No Yellow).
- Blue Shampoo: Cancels orange tones in brunettes (Matrix Total Results Brass Off).
- Pink Shampoo: Adds rose gold warmth (Maria Nila Cool Cream).
How to Choose the Right Toner
Follow these steps to find your perfect match:
Identify Your Hair’s Current Tone
After bleaching, assess your hair under natural light:
- Yellow → Needs purple toner.
- Orange → Needs blue toner.
- Red → Needs green toner (less common; often used for corrective color).
- Pale Yellow/White → Use silver or pearl toner for brightness.
Consider Your Hair’s Condition
- Porous Hair: Absorbs toner quickly → Use a demi-permanent toner for even results.
- Damaged Hair: Avoid high-developer toners → Opt for gentle semi-permanent options.
Match Toner Types to Your Routine
- Low Maintenance: Toning shampoos.
- DIY-Friendly: Semi-permanent glosses.
- Salon-Level Results: Demi-permanent toners with developer.
Toner Formulas for Different Hair Colors
Blonde Hair
- Yellow/Brassy Blonde: Purple toner (e.g., Wella T18 + 10 Vol developer).
- Warm Golden Blonde: Beige or pearl toner.
- Platinum/Silver: Silver toner with violet base (e.g., Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance).
Brunette Hair
- Orange Tones: Blue toner or blue shampoo.
- Reddish Tones: Green-based ash toner.
- Cool Brunette: Neutral toner with blue-violet pigments.
Gray Hair
- Yellowish Gray: Purple shampoo (e.g., Clairol Shimmer Lights).
- White/Silver: Clear gloss to enhance shine.
Fashion Colors (Pink, Blue, etc.)
- Pastel Pink: Mix semi-permanent pink dye with conditioner.
- Muted Blue: Use a blue toner over faded fashion color.
How to Apply Toner: Step-by-Step
What You’ll Need:
- Toner
- Developer (if using demi-permanent)
- Gloves, bowl, brush
- Timer
Instructions:
- Wash Hair: Use clarifying shampoo to remove buildup. Do NOT condition.
- Mix Toner: For demi-permanent, follow brand ratios (e.g., 1:2 toner-to-developer).
- Apply: Section hair and coat evenly from roots to ends.
- Process: 5–20 minutes (check every 5 minutes to avoid over-toning).
- Rinse: Cool water until it runs clear.
- Condition: Use a sulfate-free mask to seal color.
Maintaining Toned Hair
- Wash Less Frequently: 2–3 times/week with cool water.
- Use Color-Safe Products: Sulfate-free shampoo + pigmented conditioner.
- Avoid Heat Tools: High heat fades toner faster.
- Refresh with Masks: Weekly toning treatments (e.g., Fanola No Yellow Mask).
Common Toner Mistakes to Avoid
- Skipping a Strand Test: Always test toner on a small section first.
- Over-Toning: Leaves hair gray or dull.
- Using the Wrong Developer: 10 Vol is safest for toning; 20 Vol can lift.
- Ignoring Hair Porosity: High-porosity hair processes toner faster.
DIY vs. Professional Toning
- DIY: Cost-effective for maintenance (e.g., shampoos, semi-permanent glosses).
- Salon: Better for complex corrections or dramatic changes (e.g., platinum blonde).
Conclusion
Finding the right toner depends on your hair’s undertones, desired result, and condition. Always start with a strand test, follow timing guidelines, and maintain your color with toning shampoos. When in doubt, consult a professional stylist for personalized advice. With this guide, you’re ready to banish brassiness and achieve salon-worthy hair at home!
Related topics:
What Toner Do I Need for My Hair?
Why Is My Hair Still Yellow After Toner?
What Toner Should I Use to Remove Orange