In the realm of battling cancer, Nanetta Bailey, a resilient 72-year-old, was struck not by fear of the disease itself, but by the prospect of losing something deeply personal: her hair.
“Amidst all the information, all I could hear was ‘Hair loss,'” Bailey recounts, still feeling the emotional weight of those words. “I knew I wouldn’t be someone who embraced the bald look, as courageous as that might be.”
Turning to the vast expanse of the internet, Bailey’s search led her to a novel solution: scalp cooling technology. A fledgling innovation at the time, it promised to combat the hair loss triggered by chemotherapy—chemotherapy-induced alopecia (CIA). The caveat? Its efficacy on textured, coiled, and voluminous hair, like Bailey’s, remained uncertain.
“The lack of data for individuals with natural hair, especially among African Americans, was disheartening,” Bailey shares, her frustration still palpable. “It felt like an oversight that amplified my anger more than the diagnosis itself.”
Despite the paucity of information, Bailey opted to entrust a scalp cooling company with her hope. Twelve weeks later, her resolve was rewarded as she emerged from chemotherapy with her hair, her identity, and her privacy intact.
Deciphering Scalp Cooling
The concept behind scalp cooling hinges on the snug embrace of a gel or ice cap that administers frigid temperatures to the scalp. This icy chill slows down blood flow to the hair follicles, curbing the reach of chemotherapy drugs notorious for triggering hair loss. Scientific evidence suggests that scalp cooling can substantially mitigate hair loss during the course of chemotherapy.
However, the testing ground for this technology predominantly comprised straight or European hair types. Consequently, the extent of its success for individuals with diverse hair profiles, encompassing differing shapes, textures, and densities, remained uncertain, as per the National Comprehensive Cancer Network (NCCN).
For those with natural hair, a slew of challenges surfaced: procuring a cap that accommodates voluminous locks and effectively transmitting the cold temperature through dense tresses to the scalp.
In response, researchers have embarked on a quest to tailor solutions that cater to coiled, kinky, and tightly curly hair. While their efforts are underway, individuals like Bailey and Nelly Gomez have charted their own paths to optimize results and disseminate their insights.
Preliminary Steps: Selecting the Right Approach
Taking a stand at 44, Nelly Gomez, a champion of natural hair, resolved that cancer wouldn’t strip her of her identity. She embarked on thorough research.
The landscape of hair-cooling alternatives continues to diversify, with companies offering an array of add-ons, from pre-packaged treatment kits to in-house experts. Regardless of the approach, the ultimate goal remains constant: establishing and sustaining a pervasive cold that blankets as much of the scalp as possible.
“I reached out to eight different companies, and they all demanded that I procure my own ice, transport it in specialized containers for each session, and even train someone to prepare my hair—this wasn’t aligned with my vision,” Gomez recalls with conviction.
Eventually, she found a fitting ally in DigniCap, a provider that offered an all-inclusive package, complete with a trained assistant to handle hair preparation. Convenience came at a price, approximately $6,000.
This financial commitment isn’t anomalous. Depending on treatment duration and local resource availability, the cost of a scalp-cooling regimen ranges from a few thousand dollars to low five-figure sums.
Although insurers rarely extend coverage to these seemingly “cosmetic” interventions, the nonprofit organization HairToStay does extend subsidies to qualifying individuals.
Both Gomez and Bailey financed their undertakings either independently or with the assistance of crowdfunding efforts.
Strategies for Natural Hair Pre-Treatment
Nurturing success demands meticulous planning and adherence to specific rituals, as shared by informed women.
Bid farewell to hair extensions, synthetic braids, dreadlocks, twists, cornrows, weaves, and lace front wigs, as these can obstruct access to the scalp.
Opt for gentle cleansing with pure products. Gomez advocates for sulfate-free options with minimal chemical content.
Prioritize air-drying; Bailey suggests a generous 18-hour gap between shampooing and treatment. Wrapping your head in a silk scarf can mitigate swelling, especially if hair tends to expand during the drying process.
Tackle bulkiness with care during combing. A wide-tooth comb, a paddle brush, or simply finger-combing can unravel clusters and minimize volume.
Enrich the hair with a thick emollient conditioner to further flatten its texture.
Deviate from heat unless explicitly advised. Excessive drying or heat styling can compromise hair resilience.
Guard the forehead by opting for a soft headband or cotton padding during chemotherapy sessions to safeguard hair-free areas of the skin.
For comfort during treatment, consider pain relievers. Many medical facilities routinely provide such medications.
Prepping Immediately Before Treatment
Commence fluid intake early to reduce the need for bathroom visits during treatment. Detaching from the cooling system for this purpose can consume valuable time.
If necessary, pack a bag equipped with essentials. Include your wide-tooth comb or paddle brush, a towel, a small spray bottle for water, an electric blanket, warm socks, and reading material. Given the incompatibility of earphones with caps and the noisy nature of cooling devices, ample reading material proves invaluable. Alternatively, plan for a restful slumber. “They always give me Benadryl, so I’m out during my treatment,” Bailey discloses.
Mind your attire to facilitate IV line connectivity. Opt for short-sleeved tops and an extra layer to maintain warmth.
Between Treatment Sessions
Indulge your hair by steering clear of chemical treatments, aggressive hair products, and vigorous brushing. “With my natural hair, I used to wash it every other week, so when I needed weekly washes, I treated it with utmost care,” Bailey notes.
Shun elaborate or overly tight hairstyles that strain the follicles.
Comb hair gently or use your fingers to minimize breakage.
Post-Chemotherapy Care
Despite the efficacy of scalp cooling, most individuals experience some hair shedding and encounter dry, brittle, and challenging regrowth. However, Bailey and Gomez see this as a minor trade-off for the considerable gain. Both emerged from their treatment journeys with their hair largely preserved.
“The preconceived notions almost convinced me that this wouldn’t work for African American hair, but I’m grateful I gave it a chance,” Gomez affirms.
In the realm of battling cancer, where challenges are aplenty, the quest to retain one’s identity and individuality can emerge victorious, leaving a trail of inspiration for others to follow.
