Meeting renowned hairstylist and trichologist, Helen Reavey, was a game-changer for me, although I didn’t realize it at the time. My initial purpose was to explore her haircare brand, Act + Acre, but things took a serious turn when Reavey unveiled a high-tech microscope to examine my scalp.
I’ve had periodic flakiness issues, and despite visits to trichologists and dermatologists, the problem persisted. They suggested washing my hair more frequently or investing in a scalp scrub. I even experimented with viral haircare trends like glycolic acid exfoliation, which provided some relief. However, recently, my flakiness was accompanied by a persistent itch.
Looking at your scalp through a microscope is an eye-opener. It reveals precisely where you haven’t washed your hair properly and where your hair has suffered due to neglect, such as failing to use heat protection spray. What surprised me was how inflamed, red, and oily my scalp appeared. This led Reavey to diagnose me with seborrheic dermatitis.
Seborrheic dermatitis is a common inflammatory skin condition that often affects the scalp. Individuals with a history of acne, rosacea, or psoriasis are more prone to developing it. However, factors like stress, hormonal changes, cold weather, and the use of harsh detergents or soaps can exacerbate the condition. Many people may not even realize they have it, and it can impact hair growth.
Here are seven valuable lessons I learned from Reavey during our 30-minute session, covering how to care for your scalp and achieve the healthiest hair possible.
1. Avoid Fragrance-Heavy Shampoos & Conditioners
According to Reavey, seborrheic dermatitis can be triggered by factors like over-touching the scalp or not rinsing out conditioner correctly, but it can also be caused by the fragrance in your shampoo. Since fragranced products were problematic for me, I switched to fragrance-free options, and my scalp irritation improved. Dr. Sharon Wong, a consultant dermatologist, advised avoiding fragrances in hair products, as they can lead to dry skin and redness. She also recommended patch testing to identify potential allergens causing dermatitis.
2. Consider Washing Your Hair More Frequently
Reavey recommends washing your hair more often and emphasizes cleansing the scalp rather than the hair. Regular washing is beneficial, but be gentle with the ends of your hair to prevent damage. Apply a hair mask to the ends while shampooing the roots to safeguard them.
3. Emulsify Your Shampoo & Double-Cleanse
Emulsifying shampoo is essential for efficient cleaning. To emulsify your shampoo, rub it into wet hands for around 30 seconds to create a thick lather. This ensures even distribution on your scalp. Make sure your hair is fully soaked to facilitate cleansing.
4. Disregard the “Hair Training” Trend
Reavey dismisses the “hair training” trend that advocates shampooing less frequently to balance the scalp’s oil production. She cautions that going several days without washing your hair does not reduce oil but, in fact, increases it. Just as you wouldn’t go days without washing your face, the same applies to your scalp.
5. Embrace Hair Oils
Despite concerns that hair oils might weigh down fine hair, Reavey endorses their benefits for both hair and scalp. They can serve as pre-shampoo treatments, helping to break down hair products, soothe and hydrate the scalp, and revitalize the hair.
6. Opt for Salicylic Acid Over Glycolic Acid
While glycolic acid is effective for exfoliating the scalp, Reavey prefers salicylic acid, which penetrates deeper into the pores, making it gentle yet effective in breaking up dead skin, oil, and dirt. Liquid exfoliators are recommended over scrubs for the scalp.
7. Avoid Self-Diagnosis
If you experience severe scalp issues such as irritation, flakes, or redness, it’s best to consult a healthcare professional, dermatologist, or trichologist rather than self-diagnosing, as this can worsen the problem.
Remember that this information is general in nature and not a substitute for medical advice. Individual circumstances should be discussed with a healthcare provider.
