In the pursuit of sleek, stylish hair, understanding the science behind hair straightening is essential. Hair, comprised of disulfide bonds, maintains its natural state through these bonds. Straightening involves breaking these bonds, allowing for a new, smooth shape. Raphael Roque, senior stylist at Rob Peetoom Williamsburg, emphasizes the transformative potential of straightening, stating, “Straightening your hair can be a very fun way to dramatically change one’s look day to day.”
Hair straightening methods can be broadly categorized into two types: temporary and permanent. Temporary methods, as the name suggests, offer a sleek style that reverts to its natural state when wet, assuming no major heat damage occurs. On the other hand, permanent methods maintain the new shape until the hair is cut.
Temporary Straightening Methods
Blowout: Involving a blow dryer and round brush, a blowout adds tension to the hair, resulting in a smooth finish with a big, bouncy curl. Lasting one to two days, the process takes 30 minutes to an hour, depending on hair length and density.
Flat Ironing: This method, done on dry hair, involves sectioning the hair and using a flat iron/straightener after rough-drying with a blow dryer and brush. The look lasts until the hair appears visibly dirty or until the next wash.
Silk Press: Similar to flat ironing but more intense, a silk press includes deep washes, a blow-dry, and straightening. Results can last about a week or until the next wash, depending on hair density and length.
Roller Set: An old-school method using less direct heat, a roller set involves rolling hair into rollers and sitting under a hooded dryer. This method achieves volume and straightening, with results lasting one to three days.
Semi-Permanent Methods
Keratin Treatment: Using safe amounts of formaldehyde, a keratin treatment smoothens the hair follicle. While it requires the application of other methods to achieve straight hair, the treatment helps retain straight styles for four to six months, gradually wearing off.
Permanent Straightening Methods
Relaxer: A permanent method that uses chemicals like sodium hydroxide to break disulfide bonds and remove all curl/wave from the hair. Root touch-ups are necessary as new hair grows, and the only way to revert to natural texture is by cutting off the treated hair.
Japanese Thermal Straightening: Also known as permanent re-bonding, this method reshapes hair bonds using chemicals like ammonium thioglycolate. The process involves wetting the hair, applying a solution, rinsing, blow-drying, straightening, applying a neutralizing solution, and final blow-drying.
Understanding these methods empowers individuals to make informed choices based on their preferences and hair care needs.
