NEW YORK — Since the pandemic, consumers have become increasingly concerned with personal health, especially gut health and the microbiome. This has led to a surge in sales for products like probiotics, greens powders, and digestive sodas such as Poppi and Olipop.
However, the focus on microbiome health isn’t limited to just the gut. The beauty industry is now highlighting the importance of a healthy skin microbiome to prevent premature aging and acne. The Rootist, a new hair-care line launched in April, is introducing fermented ingredients as a new innovation in the shampoo aisle. The brand promises “anchored, active roots, a hydrated, balanced scalp, and strong, healthy hair.”
Clare Hennigan, principal analyst for Beauty & Personal Care at Mintel, notes that these brands have already garnered consumer interest.
“In hair care from 2022 to 2023, the number of products that feature microbiome in the product description have actually increased 52.3%,” Hennigan told ABC News. “We really see, especially in hair care, the momentum stirring and the demand growing for microbiome hair care solutions.”
But what exactly are these fermented ingredients, how do brands claim they work, and are they worth the hype?
What Are Fermented Ingredients and How Can They Help Maintain and Balance the Microbiome?
Simply put, fermented ingredients are bacteria, according to Dr. Mona Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor at Yale School of Medicine.
“If you leave something out long enough, things kind of grow out of it. One of the things that grows is bacteria,” Gohara told ABC News.
Not all bacteria are bad; for instance, yogurt and kombucha are made through fermentation.
The Rootist claims that its fermenting process makes their products “easily recognized and received by roots, scalp, and hair.” Just like skin and the gut, the scalp has its own bacteria and fungi, which together create its microbiome. Gohara explains that the fermented ingredients in products like The Rootist’s help feed the bacteria on our scalps, supporting the health of our pre-existing scalp microbiome.
Maintaining a balanced scalp microbiome is crucial for keeping hair healthy, says Dr. Jeannette Graf, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the Mount Sinai School of Medicine. Conditions like dandruff or acne can be influenced by the microbiome.
“If we have an imbalance of our microbiome or a microbiome is not working correctly, we need to create an environment on the skin of the scalp, on the skin of face, where they can exist,” Graf told ABC News.
“Think of it like a garden, and the soil is the scalp. If the soil is healthy, the plants and the flowers are going to blossom,” explained Gohara. “If the scalp is compromised or inflamed or irritated, it’s less healthy soil, right? And that, and then leads to less healthy, bountiful garden.”
Are They Worth the Hype?
While in theory, fermented hair care ingredients may benefit the scalp microbiome, more research is needed to confirm their effectiveness.
“Within the personal care industry, many new ingredient technologies are being developed,” Graf said. “So studies are done by these biotech companies — and good ones. But that is where most of the research and literature is published.”
“It’s safe to say that at a minimum, the product will support a healthy scalp microbiome,” Gohara added, but she stops short of claiming these products will lead to increased hair growth. “It means that in me, whatever my biological potential as a 48-year-old woman at this point, if I use this, it’ll make my hair grow as optimally as it would biologically at this point.”
Even though more research is necessary, Hennigan says the industry is fully embracing fermented hair care.
“This signals broader industry trends overall, where we’ll see how we can really personalize our products specific to even perhaps our own personal microbiomes, to better target and pinpoint our specific needs,” Hennigan said.
