Choosing the right bleach for your hair is a critical decision that can impact both your hair’s health and the final color result. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about hair bleach, including types, factors to consider, application steps, aftercare, and common mistakes. By the end, you’ll feel confident selecting the best bleach for your needs. Let’s dive in!
Introduction to Hair Bleach
Bleach is a chemical product that lightens hair by breaking down its natural pigment (melanin). It is often used to achieve blonde shades, pastel colors, or to prepare hair for vibrant dyes. However, not all bleaches work the same way. Using the wrong type or formula can lead to damage, uneven color, or scalp irritation. This guide will help you choose the right bleach based on your hair type, goals, and sensitivity.
Types of Hair Bleach
Powder Bleach vs. Cream Bleach
Powder Bleach
- What it is: A dry, powdery formula mixed with a developer (peroxide).
- Pros: Strong lightening power, affordable, works quickly.
- Cons: Can dry out hair, harder to apply evenly, may cause scalp irritation.
- Best for: Thick, resistant hair or achieving platinum blonde.
Cream Bleach
- What it is: A creamy, moisturizing formula mixed with developer.
- Pros: Gentler on hair, easier to apply, less messy.
- Cons: May take longer to lift color, less effective on very dark hair.
- Best for: Fine, fragile hair or touch-ups.
Oil-Based vs. Ammonia-Based Bleach
Oil-Based Bleach
- Contains oils (e.g., coconut, argan) to reduce dryness.
- Slower processing time but causes less damage.
- Ideal for dry or damaged hair.
Ammonia-Based Bleach
- Contains ammonia for faster, stronger lightening.
- Can irritate the scalp and weaken hair.
- Best for stubborn, dark hair needing major lift.
Factors to Consider When Choosing Bleach
Your Hair Type
Virgin vs. Colored Hair
Virgin hair: Never been dyed or bleached. Use a gentle bleach (e.g., cream bleach with 20–30vol developer).
Colored hair: Previously dyed. Requires stronger bleach (powder + 30vol) to lift existing pigment.
Hair Thickness
Thick hair: Needs powerful bleach (powder + 40vol developer).
Fine hair: Use cream bleach with 10–20vol to avoid breakage.
Hair Condition
Healthy hair: Can tolerate stronger formulas.
Damaged hair: Opt for oil-based or low-volume developer.
Desired Color Result
Lightness Level
- Level 1–10 (1 = black, 10 = lightest blonde).
- Dark to medium blonde (level 6–8): 20–30vol developer.
- Platinum blonde (level 9–10): 30–40vol developer.
Toner Needed?
Bleached hair often turns yellow/orange. Use a toner after bleaching to neutralize brassy tones.
Sensitivity & Safety
Scalp Sensitivity
- Avoid ammonia-based bleach if your scalp is sensitive.
- Apply petroleum jelly to your hairline to protect skin.
Allergies
Patch test bleach 48 hours before use to check for reactions.
Choosing the Right Developer
The developer (peroxide) activates the bleach.
Its volume (10, 20, 30, 40) determines strength and processing time:
- 10vol: Subtle lightening (1–2 shades), safe for fragile hair.
- 20vol: Lifts 2–3 shades, ideal for touch-ups.
- 30vol: Lifts 3–4 shades, standard for most bleaching.
- 40vol: Maximum lift (4–5+ shades), risky for damage. Use only on thick, healthy hair.
Step-by-Step Bleaching Process
Preparation
- Do a strand test to check processing time and results.
- Wear gloves and protect clothing with a cape.
- Mix bleach and developer in a plastic bowl (follow package ratios).
Application
- Section hair into four parts.
- Start applying bleach ½ inch from the scalp (roots lighten faster).
- Cover all hair evenly with a brush, avoiding overlaps.
- Process for 20–45 minutes (check every 5–10 minutes).
Rinsing & Aftercare
- Rinse with cool water until water runs clear.
- Use a purple shampoo to neutralize yellow tones.
- Apply a deep conditioner or hair mask.
Post-Bleach Hair Care
- Purple Shampoo: Use weekly to maintain cool tones.
- Hydrating Masks: Repair damage with keratin or protein treatments.
- Heat Protection: Always use before styling tools.
- Avoid Frequent Washing: Preserve color and moisture.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Overlapping Bleach: Applying bleach to already processed hair causes breakage.
- Ignoring Processing Time: Leaving bleach on too long damages hair.
- Skipping Strand Tests: Always test first!
- Using High-Volume Developer Unnecessarily: 40vol isn’t always better.
Recommended Bleach Products
- Best for Sensitive Scalps: Wella Blondor Premium Crème (ammonia-free).
- Best for Dark Hair: L’Oréal Quick Blue Powder + 30vol developer.
- Budget-Friendly: Clairol BW2 Lightening Powder.
- Gentle Option: Schwarzkopf BlondeMe Bond Enforcing Cream.
When to See a Professional
Consult a stylist if:
- You’re aiming for more than 4 shades lighter.
- Your hair is already damaged.
- You’re unsure about techniques or formulas.
Conclusion
Choosing the right bleach depends on your hair type, color goals, and sensitivity. Always prioritize hair health by selecting gentle formulas, proper developers, and following aftercare routines. When in doubt, seek professional help to avoid irreversible damage. With the right bleach and care, you can achieve beautiful, healthy-looking results!
Related topics:
10 Best Shampoos for Bleached Hair
What Type of Bleach Should I Use for My Hair?
10 Tips to Help Dry Bleached Hair
