Bleaching hair is a transformative process that removes natural pigment, but it often compromises hair integrity. The alkaline nature of bleach raises the hair cuticle, allowing the active ingredient (usually hydrogen peroxide) to break down melanin. This process can weaken the hair’s structure, leading to dryness, porosity, and breakage.
As a stylist, incorporating protective additives into the bleach mixture can mitigate damage while achieving desired lightness. This essay explores key ingredients that can be added to bleach, detailing their roles, benefits, and application methods.
Bond Builders: Repairing Disulfide Bonds
What Are Bond Builders?
Bond builders are compounds that repair broken disulfide bonds—the structural backbone of hair. During bleaching, these bonds break, causing fragility. Ingredients like bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (found in Olaplex No.1) reconnect sulfur bonds, preserving strength.
How They Work
Added directly to the bleach mixture, bond builders penetrate the hair shaft, identifying and repairing broken bonds. Studies show they reduce breakage by up to 70% when used during lightening.
Application Tips
- Mix 1–2 drops per 1 oz of bleach.
- Ensure even distribution for uniform protection.
Considerations
Overuse may slow processing; follow brand guidelines. Alternatives include K18’s peptide complex or Redken’s Acidic Bonding Concentrate.
Proteins: Reinforcing Hair Structure
Types of Proteins
Hydrolyzed proteins (e.g., keratin, wheat, silk) are broken into small molecules that penetrate hair, filling gaps in the cortex.
Role in Bleaching
Proteins temporarily patch damaged areas, preventing excessive moisture loss and brittleness.
Usage
- Add 2–3 drops of liquid hydrolyzed protein to the bleach.
- Pre-treat hair with protein masks for extra reinforcement.
Cautions
Excessive protein can cause stiffness. Balance with moisturizing agents.
Oils: Creating a Protective Barrier
Effective Oils
- Coconut Oil: Penetrates the shaft, reducing protein loss.
- Argan Oil: Rich in antioxidants, nourishes the cuticle.
- Jojoba Oil: Mimics natural sebum, enhancing elasticity.
Application
- Mix 3–5 drops into bleach to form a lipid barrier.
- Pre-soak hair in oil for 10 minutes before bleaching.
Drawbacks
Oils may slow processing. Adjust timing and monitor lightness.
Antioxidants: Neutralizing Free Radicals
Key Antioxidants
Vitamin E and green tea extract combat free radicals generated during bleaching, preventing oxidative stress.
How to Use
- Add 1–2 capsules of vitamin E oil to the bleach.
- Opt for bleaches with built-in antioxidants.
Benefits
Reduces keratin degradation and maintains hair’s natural shine.
Humectants: Balancing Moisture
Common Humectants
Glycerin and panthenol attract moisture, preventing dehydration during bleaching.
Usage
- Incorporate 2–3 drops of glycerin into the mixture.
- Avoid overuse in dry climates, as it may draw moisture from the hair.
Chelating Agents: Ensuring Even Processing
Purpose
Agents like EDTA bind metal ions in water, preventing uneven bleaching and mineral buildup.
Application
- Use bleach powders with EDTA.
- Add a pinch of citric acid to neutralize hard water.
pH Adjusters: Minimizing Cuticle Damage
Role
Bleach is highly alkaline (pH 9–11). Mild acids (e.g., citric acid) lower pH to 8–9, reducing cuticle swelling.
How to Apply
- Add 1–2 drops of lemon juice or commercial pH adjusters.
- Test pH strips to avoid over-acidification, which hinders lightening.
Combining Additives: Synergistic Effects
Example Mixture
- Bond builder + coconut oil + vitamin E offers multi-layered protection.
- Adjust ratios to avoid overloading the bleach.
Precautions
Test combinations on a strand first. Monitor processing time and results.
Application Techniques for Maximum Protection
- Pre-Treatment: Apply oils or proteins 10–15 minutes before bleaching.
- In-Mix Additives: Blend bond builders, antioxidants, and pH adjusters into the bleach.
- Post-Bleach Care: Use protein masks and leave-in conditioners to seal cuticles.
Conclusion
Incorporating bond builders, proteins, oils, and other protective agents into bleach significantly reduces damage. Each additive addresses specific aspects of hair integrity, from bond repair to moisture retention. Stylists should tailor combinations based on hair type and desired results, always prioritizing health alongside aesthetics. By understanding the science and application of these ingredients, professionals can achieve stunning, sustainable transformations.
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