Confession: My relationship with my curly hair has always been a fraught one. Growing up in the ’90s and early ’00s, when stick-straight hair was undeniably the preferred aesthetic, I tried every kind of chemical and hair tool to try to tame my curls into heat-induced submission. The results, predictably, were fried ends and product-saturated hair that lacked body and generally gave off an air of misery.
As someone who has worked at fashion magazines for almost the entirety of her career, I’m also no stranger to the ways in which hair products and practices have changed over the last decade. Heavy, silicone-laden leave-in treatments have been replaced with more intelligent formulations that speak directly to the specific needs faced by curly hair. Over a decade since I purchased my first flattening iron, I’m proud to report that I have ditched my thirst for pressed hair and am now almost always styling my hair without heat. If your knee-jerk reaction is skepticism, I invite you to have a little faith, because the advice listed below is probably simpler than you expect.
1. Choose a microfiber towel.
Okay, let’s start with the basics: your towel. Regular terrycloth towels can be harsh on your hair, leading to increased frizz and dryness. The microfiber versions are softer and more absorbent, and will cut down on your hair’s drying time. For curly hair, it is recommended to leave your hair wrapped until it is semi-dry—the best way to ensure that all the excess water is absorbed without irritating the hair. Try these microfiber towels from Crown Affair.
2. Learn how to use a diffuser correctly.
Air-drying your hair may not always be an option, and in those situations, a diffuser almost always saves the day. Take it from someone who has suffered more than one hair catastrophe at the hands of a regular hair dryer—it takes some practice to learn how to use a diffuser correctly, but it is so worth your time.
Begin by attaching the diffuser and setting your blow-dryer to medium-high heat (adjusting as you go along, depending on the thickness and heat sensitivity of your hair). Tip your hair forward (sometimes made easier by being seated in a chair!) and point the mouth of the diffuser up toward your curls. Go section by section—patience is your best friend here—and don’t stop until your hair is almost completely dry. For curls that feel bouncy, make sure to pay attention to your roots. If you’re in the market for a diffuser, the Dyson Supersonic attachment is hard to beat.
3. Find the perfect product cocktail.
Did you know that layering products onto your hair—that is, applying them one after the other—is distinctly different from mixing two products together before applying? The latter is referred to as a product cocktail, and it leads to markedly different results than layering. The challenge lies in finding the perfect mélange for you—curl cream and gel, mousse and leave-in conditioner, or a conditioning oil pared with a curl-defining hair serum.
Trial and error are the best way to find what works for you—but start with blending hair care products you already own, use, and love. If you’re just starting out, try this Curlsmith air-dry cream cocktailed with this flaxseed-infused gel from Fix My Curls.
4. Use sunblock for your hair.
For those with complex, multistep skincare routines, it’s hard to deny that sunscreen is the one hero product that delivers the most impact on your skin in the long term. Hair is no different—prolonged, unprotected sun exposure can cause melanin and moisture loss, which is what leads to dry, faded curls. Most people only think to apply a heat protectant when they’re heat styling, but UV protection should be something that is a part of your hair care routine whether you prefer to let your hair air-dry or use your diffuser on the highest setting. Try this heat protectant from Clarins, which is SPF 30.
5. Try on heat-free styling
Look, the idea of letting your curls dry au natural and without any heat intervention can seem daunting, especially if that has been your go-to styling fix. But properly moisturized and cared-for curls may surprise you with their potential for heat-free magnificence. To give your hair more shape and definition, try finger-curling sections after applying your products, or using clips to achieve pin curls, or putting it in a braid to have perfect morning-after waves. If you need a little more help, try this heatless curling set from Kitsch.
