When I embarked on my natural hair journey in 2014, I naively believed that simply eschewing relaxers and embracing my innate texture would guarantee me a crown of healthy hair. I assumed my lineage had bestowed me with inherent hair wellness, and adopting my natural locks would effortlessly confer those benefits. However, the last nearly-decade has shattered this illusion, teaching me that the path to hair health isn’t that straightforward.
The term “natural” hair often evokes notions of simplicity, vitality, and even a sense of superiority. This allure has propelled countless women, myself included, to transition away from chemically altering their hair. Between 2017 and 2020, there was a 23 percent surge in Black women aspiring to embrace their natural hair textures. This shift was synonymous with embracing authenticity and discarding Eurocentric beauty standards. Bid adieu to relaxers, and in return, say hello to an easier routine that promotes hair well-being. Personally, going natural felt like joining the “cool kids” while nursing my scalp and tresses back to their prime.
Yet, during these past eight years, I’ve unearthed the harsh reality that “natural” doesn’t equate to “thriving.” Undeniably, embracing your natural texture might mean fewer salon visits to touch up relaxers, but it doesn’t mean less effort—rather, it requires equal if not greater dedication to maintain. It demands unyielding care, attention, and devotion to achieve and sustain true health.
‘Natural’ doesn’t guarantee ‘healthy’
The reputation of chemical relaxers as potential risks—capable of undermining hair integrity and even posing health hazards—fueled the misconception that forsaking them was synonymous with restoring hair health. Tippi Shorter, celebrity hairstylist and global artistic director at Mizani, underscores that it’s not so straightforward.
Hair health transcends states
Thanks to increased investment and support for Black-owned brands, sourcing suitable products for textured hair, whether natural or not, has become less daunting. After amassing a dependable collection of products, maintaining a solid regimen involves considering three key principles, as highlighted by Harris.
“Firstly, understand your hair’s specific needs,” he advises. “Secondly, determine the optimal frequency for hair care—Are you washing it at the right intervals? Do you protect it during nighttime? Lastly, attentively observe how your hair reacts to the products and techniques you apply. Are you aligning your routine with your hair’s responses?”
Upholding natural hair health
Above all, hydration emerges as the cornerstone of natural hair care. “Replenishing moisture is critical for kinky, coily hair, and I highly recommend deep conditioning,” asserts Adeline Kikam, DO, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Brown Skin Derm. Elevating this practice can involve using a heat cap to seal in the benefits of deep conditioning.
Personalized care is paramount
Amidst my quasi-neglectful approach to natural hair care over the past decade, I’ve recently decided to entrust my tresses to the adept hands of a professional stylist. My type-4 coils now receive meticulous attention, with regular trims, deep conditioning, and steam treatments. My focus in 2023 is rejuvenating my hair after years of oversight, primarily through protective styles. Who knows, I might even consider a keratin treatment next year. Regardless, my commitment to foundational hair care remains steadfast, ensuring my strands remain resilient, well-nourished, and healthy within a manageable and realistic framework.
Harris encapsulates it well: “Design a regimen that genuinely promotes hair health and aligns with your personal comfort. Your choice of hairstyle should enhance your confidence and well-being. The goal is to find what makes you feel your best, recognizing that this differs for each individual. Not everyone needs to embrace natural or curly hair; it’s about discovering what empowers your look and your spirit.”
