The haircare industry in France is experiencing a significant transformation, with a specialization in products that cater to textured hair, a segment that has long been overlooked. As the demand for all-natural products continues to surge, an entire industry is now focused on embracing and celebrating the beauty of curls, free from past insecurities.
In 2022, Les Secrets de Loly witnessed an astounding growth of over 565%, while Baraboucle has expanded with four new openings in less than four years, with a new location in Lille soon to open its doors. Furthermore, brands from the United States and the UK, such as Carol’s Daughter and Bouclème, have gained a strong foothold in the French market, signaling the rapid growth of natural care products for textured hair.
The term “textured hair” represents all hair types that are not straight, including wavy, curly, frizzy, and kinky hair. In contrast, the outdated term “ethnic hair” was used not too long ago. The evolution of this terminology reflects the significant progress made in embracing diversity and natural beauty. Jean-Claude Cheffre, Head of the Activilong brand, which is part of the Labomai Group, recalls their journey from being positioned in the “products of the world” section in Carrefour hypermarkets to finally establishing a place in the hair care section.
Camille Scouarnec, Product Manager at Énergie Fruit, points out that for a long time, textured hair was marginalized in France, both on retail shelves and within the hairdressing industry, where professionals were often unsure how to style such hair.
From the era of Michael Jackson’s Jheri curl to today’s embrace of natural curls, the perception of textured hair has come a long way. Previously, denaturing looks dominated the beauty landscape in France, with straightening, artificial curls, and chemical coloring being the norm. However, the tide is turning, with people in Europe and the United States gradually moving away from these preconceived notions.
Apart from societal pressure, straightening practices and texture modifications have been found to be harmful to hair health. A study by the National Institutes of Health (NIH) in the United States even revealed a link between straightening products and the development of uterine cancer.
This shift towards natural hair care has not gone unnoticed. Kelly Massol, founder of Les Secrets de Loly, recalls the limited product options for textured hair in France when she founded her brand in 2009. Michele Scott-Lynch, founder of the British brand Bouclème, was inspired to create her brand after her daughter asked her to straighten her hair, stemming from her own experiences of trying to change her hair’s appearance and damaging it in the process.
Recognizing the unique needs of textured hair, brands like Énergie Fruit have introduced specialized products, such as “Coco Curl” shampoo and mask, along with a range called Nutri-Intense designed for curly to frizzy hair.
The proliferation of products, along with the impact of social media and the trend toward naturalness, has led retailers to pay closer attention to the textured hair segment. Les Secrets de Loly, for instance, has expanded its distribution network, making its products available in various retail locations, including Sephora.
Furthermore, the education and training of hairdressers are being organized to meet the increasing demand for textured hair care. A certification program focused on curly, frizzy, and kinky hair is now available in accredited pilot centers, with plans for more establishments to join. However, the process is expected to take years to reach a larger audience.
Recognizing the need to fill the knowledge gap in the industry, the founder of Les Secrets de Loly is opening a hair academy specializing in textured hair in the first quarter of 2024, aimed at training existing hair professionals.
In 2019, L’Oréal established Real Campus, a unique institution that offers a bachelor’s degree in hairdressing, and features specialized bootcamps for curly, frizzy, and kinky hair care. The industry is evolving to embrace the beauty of textured hair, and this transformation is changing the landscape of haircare in France.
