The pursuit of straight hair, often achieved through chemical treatments, has long been a complex journey, with potentially serious health consequences. The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is now proposing a rule to ban hair straightening and smoothing products containing formaldehyde or releasing it when heat is applied, targeting a range of products that have posed health risks, particularly for Black women. The proposed rule is set for approval in April, but some critics argue it may be insufficient given the long-standing awareness of the associated health risks.
Chemical relaxers, historically popular despite causing skin burns and hair loss, have been known for their health hazards. While their use has diminished as awareness of their long-term effects grew and beauty standards evolved, newer products, like the Brazilian Blowout, entered the market. These products, now targeted by the FDA’s proposed rule, use keratin to achieve straight and smooth hair.
Dermatology expert Dr. Christopher Bunick emphasizes the potential health risks associated with these products, particularly the release of formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Long-term exposure, including inhalation by stylists applying the treatments, can have severe consequences. A 2022 study by the National Institutes of Health linked chemical hair-straightening products to a higher risk of uterine cancer, with Black women facing a disproportionate risk.
The FDA’s response to these concerns has faced criticism for its delayed action. An investigation revealed that the FDA had been working on a ban since at least 2016, yet the products in question remained on the market. It took an inquiry by Congresswomen Ayanna Pressley and Shontel Brown in March to initiate public efforts for the proposed ban, which was formally presented in October.
Stylists and clients currently bear the responsibility of identifying products containing formaldehyde or other harmful chemicals. The proposed ban aims to bring transparency to the market, but some express skepticism about its real-world impact. Stylists like Lori Lemelle suggest that bans might lead to the substitution of one harmful product for another.
While acknowledging potential risks, Dr. Bunick supports the proposed ban, emphasizing the need to act now. However, he recognizes the possibility of new products with unknown risks emerging. This raises concerns about the effectiveness of the proposed rule in safeguarding public health.
Some stylists, like Lexy Prejean, note a positive shift in consumer attitudes as more people, especially Black women, embrace their natural hair textures. However, challenges remain in educating clients about proper care and styling for natural curls.
As the FDA addresses one aspect of chemical exposure in hair products, concerns persist about potential health risks associated with other chemicals. Stylists and consumers alike are navigating a complex landscape, where the pursuit of beauty intersects with health considerations. The proposed ban, while a step in the right direction, raises questions about the broader regulatory landscape and the ongoing responsibility of individuals to prioritize health over beauty standards.
